HORSETALK
HAPPY HACKING
Many people view hacking [riding] out as an exercise of relaxation for both horse and rider. Admittedly there is nothing nicer than ambling along country roads and tracks, sun shining, birds singing etc. (although in reality there is very little opportunity for many riders to enjoy the luxury of quiet roads these days), but you can also use hacking time as a crafty opportunity to school Dobbin without him realising he is being "tricked" into working despite the fact he is not in the ménage.
There are quite a few horses that just will not concentrate and apply themselves to their work in a school – they switch off. Ok, so you can then put your spurs on or get your schooling whip out but that's not the answer. Your horse is not being naughty or disobedient, he just doesn't enjoy being at "school" in the school! He can't be blamed; I intensely disliked being trapped inside a classroom (unless it was one of my favourite subjects) – I wanted to be outside, free!. So with a little "kidology" (as we call it) you can achieve quite a bit out in the open - there's not really anything you can’t do.
1. Of course Dobbin must have the chance to relax without being collected and rounded up all the time; but you don't necessarily have to let the reins go out to the buckle end, just let the neck extend a bit. That is the happy medium – you maintain a good contact and some control (in case of the unexpected) but because he isn't all gathered up Dobbin assumes a more relaxed mode. The difference is being on a long rein as opposed to being on a loose rein. Obviously at appropriate opportunities you can do full "forward stretches" as you would in the school removing any contact at all.
2. Have periods when you collect your horse up and get him on the bit and make him work properly from behind - get those hocks engaged. Actually, when riding outside of the confines of a school, because horses tend naturally to be more alert by virtue of all that is happening around them, it can be easier to get them to engage because they work with a bit more spring in their step and with more natural impulsion rather than you having to put in there.
3. Stretches do not have to be confined to "forward and down" (which can be done either on a completely loose rein (if conditions permit) or by gradually lengthening the rein and letting the horse keep asking for more – we call this a "working stretch" which can actually be done in trot and canter as you always maintain contact. You can also encourage Dobbin to do some of his carrot stretches on the move such as nose to girth flexing. Until he gets the idea that he can actually turn his head and move forward at the same time you can always halt somewhere, do some stretching work and then ride on again.
4. Out in the open is of course an ideal place to practice lengthening of the stride because you are not restricted by how long you can ask for extension (normally as long as the long side of the school or across the diagonal). Remember that there is a difference between a longer stride and just going faster!! It feels faster because of the greater impulsion and engagement and because you are covering a greater distance with each step. Don't forget it's not only in trot that you should think about extending – walk is so overlooked but just as important. When having to do weeks of endless walking with leg horses or other injury related rehab horses, I promise, you soon begin to think about extended walk!!
5. Changes of pace or rather the pace of each gait are important too. I don’t mean a cavalry charge across a piece of grass (although …. hmm .… what good fun!) but changes in tempo – working trot/medium trot, etc. Please though, don't be tempted to trot too fast especially on hard roadways; that is the surest way to jar Dobbin, give him sore shins or one of numerous concussion related ailments; it can also be a cause of laminitis in some horses.
6. Rein back is often forgotten about whilst riding out but is an important exercise to carry out. It helps maintain obedience and attentiveness as well as being very useful should you need to open a gate or whatever. Actually halting is something very few people think about too. Occasionally make Dobbin just stop and stand still. This in reality is very important especially at road junctions as Dobbin doesn't want to be reversing backwards or jiggling about at the roadside when there is traffic approaching. Ex-racehorses, especially NH ones are the worst for not wanting to stand still because they are used to being kept poised and ready-for-the-off the moment the tape goes up.
7. Leg yielding exercises and lateral work can all be done outside too; hedges and fences are especially useful to help guide the novice horse so that you don’t find yourself wandering about all over the place.
8. If you have access to an open area of field then you can take time out to perform a few circles and serpentines. The unexpected keeps Dobbin alert and listening as well as aiding his suppleness which after all is what schooling is all about.In wet weather make Dobbin step through puddles. Whilst this isn't going to ensure you won't have any problems at a water jump, horses instinctively avoid walking through areas of water so by making him do as he you ask, you are reinforcing the obedience and trust-in-the-rider concept which, when faced with something a little more sinister, is going to be to your advantage.
9. Take up any opportunities which may arise to introduce Dobbin to new objects. Let him walk up to them and have a good look to reassure him that the devil isn't going to leap out at him.
When riding in company, remember to be considerate to your colleagues. Being with another horse does not always have the calming effect that is anticipated. Don't let Dobbin's manners go out of the window just because he wants to catch his friends up, but in that vane don't actively encourage disobedience or induce stress by expecting him to stay behind if his friends have gone off into the great blue yonder. That's not making him be obedient but instead just asking for trouble.
Hacking out can be a great way of getting Dobbin fit, especially if you have a few hills to go up (down too – will help his balance). Combining work with fun is the most successful recipe for producing and keeping your horse a happy horse.
Obviously what you can do, where and when depends entirely upon the terrain and the prevalent conditions, so use a little common sense – don't expect Dobbin to do a half pass down a track full of pot holes! And don’t break the rules of the highway and put yourself and other road users at risk just because you want to do the odd pirouette in the middle of the road!!
ROAD SAFETY – some guidelines
The importance of doing all you can to keep you and Dobbin safe on the roads cannot be stressed enough.
1. If you are not sufficiently experienced or confident, do not take out a horse that you know to be unsure about traffic – that's just asking for trouble.
2. Always advise someone where you are going and how long you anticipate being so that person is alerted if your return is overdue.
3. Be alert at all times for potential hazards and danger zones such as ladies with pushchairs, umbrellas, etc. Small children can have a habit of rushing towards horses or suddenly waving their arms about as well as screaming and shouting. Dogs, even when on leads can, despite their owners' best efforts, lunge at your horse because they are curious or frightened. Remember that not that many dogs encounter equines.
4. Always, always wear a hard hat with appropriate fastenings and suitable footwear.
5. When faced with a hazard you suspect or know your horse will object to, wait until any traffic has gone or ask for traffic to stop to allow you to negotiate the hazard. Horses invariably turn their quarters into the road when peering at objects on their left; that's when traffic from behind you can collide with you because motorists don't allow for that happening.
6. If you decide to allow your dog to accompany you when riding out, please ensure that it is very obedient to voice commands and that it has been trained to maintain a position to your left; make sure both horse and dog are happy in each other's company and that the dog is of suitable temperament to encounter other dogs, horses and people.
7. Make sure you can always get back on your horse should you have need to dismount. Dobbin should be taught to stand still for you. Again ex-flat horses are notorious for not standing as they are invariably used to having jockeys legged up whilst they are on the move. In times of crisis it is surprising how any people dismount and try to lead their horses; you are actually better on top as a frightened horse can more readily break away from you when you are on the ground.
8. Whilst it is acknowledged that the rider should be the successful one in any confrontation, sometimes in the name of common sense and for the sake of safety you cannot always be victorious; you might have to admit defeat if Dobbin is hopping around on his hind legs and an 18-wheeler is bearing down on you.
Remember that a horse by its very nature and instinct is an animal of flight. There are not always logical explanations as to why a horse spooks one day at an object he has passed several times before – he has a mind of his own and an active one at that so always, always be on your guard.
If you are encountering any problems with your horse in any way and you do not have the knowledge or experience to deal with them, do not be afraid to seek professional advice before the situation gets out of hand and possibly puts you in danger.
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These articles will cover all aspects of equine management and training but are only intended to provide a guideline and are not to be construed as a substitute to seeking professional advice for individual situations.
Please do not hesitate to contact us for assistance.
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